Wine Rating Rubric

At a recent Zippy Sauce dinner, we debated over what different wine ratings meant to different people, ultimately agreeing that there is no universal scale, and you're best to follow a few reviewers that you know you tend to agree with.  However, I'm a teacher and am often required to defend a grade given to something, so I wanted to clarify my rating scale for myself.

75-79

According to Amy from Zippy Sauce, a 75 indicates that a wine is, in fact, made of grape juice that has, in fact, been fermented.  This implies that wine-like drinks made of things other than grapes just don't get rated.  As a wine approaches the 79 mark, it probably demonstrates some of the common characteristics of the grape in question.  The flavour of alcohol is usually evident, or other flaws detract from the wine drinking experience.

At 75, I might finish the glass but likely not the bottle.  At 79, I'll finish the glass, but will use the rest of the bottle to cook with.  I generally will not repurchase these wines.

80-84

There is nothing wrong with these wines.  They are very drinkable, and good for serving when there is no fixed menu, such as with a buffet or at a cocktail party with a snack table.  Boat wine often falls into the lower half of this category, and white blends towards the middle. An 83 or 84 would make a good hostess gift if you like the person and expect to be re-invited, assuming they're not a connoisseur.

I would repurchase these wines, but would be unlikely to pay more than $22 per bottle.  (Of course, this means that I would not repurchase an icewine rated 80-84, so I implicitly hold icewine to a higher standard.)

85-89

An 85 is a compliment.  It says that the wine met all of my expectations for that grape / region / process.  As we go up the scale, the aromas and flavours get more complex and multi-layered, and one or a few usual features of the wine really stand out.  The first time I try these wines, I usually say, "Oh, that would go really good with ..." and then plan a corresponding menu.

I often repurchase these wines in multiples to lie down.  If not, I watch for new vintages of the same wine and I am inclined to try other wines from the same label.  Most of the wines I buy in this category range from $25-$40, with some, including icewine, approaching $60.  Mick from Zippy Sauce notes that wines that score 89s from several high profile reviewers are often a very good value, as earning a 90 can often trigger price mark-ups.

90-94

Wines in this range are outstanding examples of their varietal.  In addition to exemplary aroma, flavour and structure,  they are often somehow greater than the sum of their parts.  Their sensation can be overwhelming at first, because they often have a lot going in.  You drink these wines slowly, and are careful about serving temperature / aerration, or you will likely miss something.

Unless this is one of those fluke 90s that happens to be quite inexpensive, (and those do exist), I don't buy these wines on a whim.  They are researched, planned purchases that don't happen until suitable storage space is available in the bar.  Opening them are 'big deal' events with carefully developped menus.

95+

I generally can't afford these wines, so effectively, 94 means "the best I've ever had."  This category only exists due to its theoretical possibility and not because I'm likely to ever use it.

Abstain

I might abstain from rating a wine if ...
  • I don't have enough experience with the grape / region / production method.
  • I find the wine confusing.
  • I don't really like the wine but I know it's not the wine's fault.  (For example, Kerri once brought back Gruyere cheese from Gruyere Switzerland and although I didn't like it, I knew it wasn't the cheese's fault.)

1 comment:

  1. Update - I recently struggled to rate a rather expensive red wine that on one hand was so tannic that my mouth felt like I'd been chewing on chalk but on the other hand unfolded beautifully with food (both steak and chocolate, not together) and had definately not aged enough yet. I went with a hesitant 89 to reward the flavours and aging potential, but to indicate that at $140 per bottle, I wouldn't purchase it to drink as it stands today. I guess that makes 89 my "investment grade" wines.

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